context

18 C O N T E X T 1 7 9 : M A R C H 2 0 2 4 to comprehend that a grassy mound may have been a viable fortification. Arguably, perhaps it was not, hence it was replaced in stone.Why this section of the wall was built in turf in the first place is unknown. Perhaps there was a scarcity of materials or perhaps speed was of the essence. The stone wall is undeniably more visually impressive but I enjoy the challenge of trying to trace the turf wall in the landscape. At Haytongate I reach the point where the geology changes from limestone to red sand- stone. This is visible in the architecture that I pass, although there is very little to see by way of wall. At Dovecote Bridge, the wall was previ- ously excavated and visible, but it was reburied to protect the soft red sandstone from deterio- rating in the British weather. Passing through Walton, earthworks appear and disappear. The route gets slowly more urban and diverges from the wall as it progresses into Carlisle. I stop for the day where the path passes under the A7 and walk into Carlisle’s fascinating city centre. Standing under a large mural featuring a Roman (pictured on the front cover), I am delighted to see that the wall and Stanwick Fort are used in interpretation of the town’s heritage, even though the fort has been largely lost. Day 6, Carlisle to Bowness It is with a mixture of sadness and relief that I find myself back at Carlisle, about to undertake the final stretch of the path. It has been spectacular and hugely enjoyable, but also unquestionably hard work. Following the River Eden, I pass out of Carlisle with the wall mostly invisible. At Burgh by Sands, after it is too late, I realise that I have passed the Fort of Aballava without noticing, as there is little to see. Burgh is a lovely village and this part of the country feels delightfully bypassed by time, almost straight from the pages of Country Life ; a stark contrast to the post-industrial land- scapes at the opposite end of the wall. As I head out of Burgh, over a cattle grid, the landscape changes dramatically. It is now a huge flat and open saltmarsh, with Scotland visible in the distance. The wall disappears, presumed lost to the marsh, although it may have never existed beyond this point, with the coast providing an adequate defensive bound- ary. It is ethereal, otherworldly. The path just misses the fort of Drumburgh and a little further on follows the route of a railway, which once ran from Port Carlisle into Carlisle, which itself follows the route of a former canal. The canal was a particularly poor investment, being obsolete nearly as soon as it was completed, and the railway was not a success either, with Port Carlisle being overtaken by Silloth early in the 20th century. The remains of the mysterious- looking harbour are visible, just off the coast. And just like that, running along the marshy coast, I am on the final stretch. In Bowness the end (or start) of the trail is marked by a shelter framing views over the coast, where I have my obligatory picture taken. I wander over to see the fort of Maia, but it has been largely lost. It must be possible to make more of the forts between Bowness and Carlisle, but I also like the pleasing contrast to the ‘exit via the gift shop’ style of heritage offered in so many other places. I know this will not be the last time I see the wall. I will be back, eager to see it through the seasons. And there is more: the National Trail path ends in Bowness but the fortifications continue. There are another 20 Roman miles of them down the Cumbrian coast to Maryport. While there is no curtain wall for this stretch, it feels like the National Trail should be extended, following the full length of the world heritage site, bringing its educational and economic opportunities. Similarly, at the eastern end it could be extended from Wallsend to South Shields and the fort of Arbeia. Looking down on to Milecastle 39 (Castle Nick) Zinnie Denby- Mann is a historic building professional who is based in Northumberland and works across the north of England. The author at the end of the trail at Bowness-on-Solway (Photo: David Dunne)